30th June 2011 The Times We should all take advantage of the glut of tomatoes and, like farmers in Abruzzo, make passata The English tomato season is at its height — and how wonderfully different they can be from the watery, ethylene-ripened balloons from Holland we were eating all spring. All this week we’ve snacked … Continue reading Eat my words: a great waft of summer
20th June 2010, The Observer From working on a Cornish trawler to cooking a memorable meal on the quayside at Looe, Giorgio Locatelli follows his fish from the net to the plate. We are rescuing fish. Giorgio Locatelli, his head chef Federico Sali and I are at the back of the trawler, elbow-deep in slime … Continue reading Giorgio Locatelli's catch of the day
May 19th 2011, The Times Sainsbury’s believes you can, but when Alex Renton took up the challenge, he found his household of foodies and fussy eaters had serious misgivings. Eighty-four meals, £50, one happy family, say the new Sainsbury’s adverts. They promise to feed a family of four for seven days for less than the … Continue reading Can you feed your family on £50 a week?
Alex Renton and family during lunch, Foulden, Berwick on Tweed. Tom Main for The Times 17th April, The Times My kids want KFC. Where did I go wrong? On the way to lunch at Giorgio Locatelli’s restaurant in London, we crossed Oxford Street. My son Adam, 11, trudging along grumpily at the prospect of a … Continue reading Foodie’s angst: Are my kids food neurotics?
3rd February, 2011 Two bacon rashers are in the frying pan — one sizzling excitedly in its own fat, the other heaving a little as it bleeds odd white clots. A couple of minutes later the first is nicely browning, ready to take centre stage beside the scrambled eggs and fried tomatoes. The second has … Continue reading Eat My Words: Bring home the bacon
10th June 2010, Observer Food Monthly Forget the eulogies to Sir Terry Leahy. The legacy of Leahyism has been damage to our towns, countryside and environment, and the promotion of a much poorer diet that we'll all pay for Sir Terry Leahy is retiring as head of Tesco after 14 years, "to spend more time … Continue reading Word of Mouth: Tesco Is No Champion of The Poor
8th April 2010 The chef Tom Kitchin swap tips with Alex Renton on how to make the perfect stock “You can cheat on light chicken stock, You can cheat sometimes on fish stock. But bouillon [beef stock] cubes don’t make it. They taste like . . . well . . . salty bouillon cubes.” So … Continue reading How to make the perfect stock
2nd March 2010 The Guardian Online Is the plan to open an industrial feed-lot in Lincolnshire another unavoidable nail in the coffin of the British dairy industry? The move by a group of English farmers to open the UK's first American-style industrial dairy feed-lot - where 8,100 cows will be fed on maize and Lucerne, … Continue reading Word of Mouth: Britain's first milk factory
24th February 2010, The Guardian Online Even committed carnivores can't dodge the facts: we're going to have to cut down on the red stuff. A bit. "If one cares about the environment, one must care about eating animals ... Someone who regularly eats factory-farmed products cannot call himself an environmentalist without divorcing that word from … Continue reading Word of Mouth: Will turning vegetarian save the planet?
12th February 2010, Guardian Online Should children be taught about where meat comes from, or is it better that they come to realise the realities of rearing and slaughter later in life? Utterly mad and particularly British is this week's story of a Kent head teacher forced from her job because she slaughtered the school … Continue reading Word of Mouth: The parable of the slaughtered lamb